Two of the best views:
#1 - looking down before descending from the Col de Rousset to the valley of the Drome
#2 - looking down from the Jura to the Lake of Geneva
Longest day's ride: 115k Langres - Arc et Senans
Most relaxed day's ride: along the Canal de Nivernais (in the rain)
Hardest ride: two days climbing 5,000ft through the Jura
Best combination hotel, dinner, and value: Les Clarines, Chatelard, Savoie
Worst: Novotel W of Grenoble
Best night at Crest Jazz Vocal: Friday, Chucho Valdez
Log:
Calais - Geneve 809k 503m 14days 12cycling
Geneve 2days
Geneve - Crest 354k 220m 7days 6cycling
Crest Jazz Vocal 5days 1cycling 3nights of concerts
Crest - Calais 1047k 651m 15days 14cycling
total 2210k 1373m 43days 33cycling
Left Etaples a little fragile after celebrating with 2 men from Swansea my last night of the trip and their first.
Excellent cycle track most of the way to Boulogne, then an up and downer through country lanes to Calais and the 1600 ferry.
Smooth crossing. Picked up by Will in Dover.
Viewed the 1346 Crecy battlefield.
from a tower that replaced the original windmill
giving this view looking N
and this looking S
Cruised down the Authie valley then across the coastal plain to Etaples.
Avoided most of the vacation Saturday changeover traffic until the last 5k.
Weekend cycling is popular here. Overtaken by many, on light weight racing bikes, no heavy panniers, but distinctly grey hair under the rear of the helmets, women included (different shaped saddles).
Spent a long time finding my way out of Amiens.
Most of the day's cycling in drizzle.
Relieved to find, after several phone calls, that the only hotel in Crecy is open.
Crossed the relatively flat land from the Oise to the evocative valley of the Somme.
Cycled through the 2000k mark for the trip.
Disappointed that the armistice carriage was housed in a museum where photos aren't allowed. Actually the carriage is a twin, the original having been carted off to Germany, then perished.
Flemish town hall architecture prevalent again
Lots of ups and downs crossing river valleys until the last third through the foret de Compiegne.
Decided to take a day's rest in this historic place, explore, and catch up on the washing.
Today, as planned, was different.
Having gone with the flow of the Nivernais and the Yonne, now as the Yonne veered W towards Paris I turned N to pass Paris on the E side. This meant crossing major river valleys, and their tributaries, flowing W.
Steadily climbed out of the Yonne valley, crossed the plateau, then descended and climbed out of the Seine valley, crossed the next plateau, and have descended towards the Marne valley.
Difficult finding accomodation open, but tomorrow should be the start of back to normal after the Bastille inspired one month French vacations.
Carried on gently down the Yonne valley, though on minor roads not towpaths.
Would have had lovely views but for the drizzle and rain.
Sens turns out to have an interestingly old centre - - not bombed in the wars, and not blighted by 1960's architectural vandalism.
Reached a milestone for the bike - - 10,000k since acquiring it in Aug 2009.
Cotinued down the Yonne valley on the Canal de Nivernais towpath.
The river and the canal share paths for some stages, then the canal cuts away to lower its height through locks before rejoining.
Some dramatic scenes where the river bend has cut into the hills.
Arrived with the canal in the old centre of Auxerre,
Except for short hops at bridges and locks, I've just done 200k without hills, and the old legs are feeling greatful for it. Maybe I can find a way of continuing this through to Calais.
Continued along the beautiful Canal de Nivernais with a short day's ride in the rain.
Repeated the route boated along in 1978. Recognised a few sights.
1 the flight of locks jammed for a couple of hours in 78
2 an old lunch spot
3 a typical drawbridge (+bike) and canal shading trees (+rain spot on lens)
Passed the 1000miles this trip
Started in La Loire valley, realised I'd chosen the hilly side and switched to the flat side after 14k, then to Decize. Here I branched to the Canal de Nivernais and its towpath. Canal towpath means no hills, just a few rises at locks and bridges. This canal towpath is wide, hard surfaced and smooth.
Ended the day's ride at Chatillon-en-B, the site where we started a canal holiday in July 78.
Today I enjoyed the upper Loire Valley.
It started with some mist over the river but this burned off by 0930.
No big hills, and wonderfully, for about 20% of the route a cycle track converted from a previous rail route and surfaced very smoothly. Gentle 59mile ride for which the legs were gratefull.
Evening reflections of La Loire
Started with 8k uphill, and crossed the watershed between the S flowing Rhone and the N flowing Loire. Following this effort, and after yesterday's exertions, my legs revolted. They wanted a shorter day without hills. Outvoted, I changed the plan, shortened the day by heading
for Roanne, and thus making tomorrow a gentler run along the banks of La Loire.
Great views - - here's looking at the S side of Lyons and surrounding countryside
BUT this turned out to be more than I'd bargained for.
Hilly, with many slopes too steep for me to cycle fully, and therefore slow.
So I decided that once I'd got to the Col de la Croix de Ban, I'd stop at the next hotel.
Unfortunately, the villages had none, or had only a vendre hotels, until, after a hilly 32k, a hit in Tarare.
Running short of water would not have been a problem had it not been a Monday - - most bars and local shops closed - - and supermarkets not on this cross-country route.
Lesson (again): better plan
Prior night at the festival meant a slow start, then breakfast at Atelier Carcavel, with a final departure later than usual.
Cycling N for the first time this trip, with, very occasionally, the sun on my back between light showers. Eventually entered the hills.
Lovely evening and meal with Fred and Nicole at Artelier Carcavel
then off to the last night of Crest Jazz Vocal.
Storming Latin American night at http://www.crestjazzvocal.com/
with first Diabloson performing salsa dura y caliente
and then, for me, the best of the festival Chucho Valdez & his Afro Cuban messengers
Wrapped up about 1:30
Went for a short spin in the Drome valley. Visited Saillons to get a view of les Trois Becs, a reminder of a climb with George in 1993.
Evening performances at the Crest Jazz Vocal
featuring first the Joachim Kuhn (piano) trio
then China Moses and her trio
Relaxed in Crest. Wandered about on market day. Entertained by jazz performers practising in bars and cafes. Got the bike serviced - - minor replacements. Booked a seat for Wed, Fri & Sat nights at the festival.
Easy morning's ride down the gently sloping Drome valley,
out of the Vercors mountain surrounds, to the lavender fielded foothills of Crest. In time for:
This time, started with the navigation mistake, adding 11k to the day.
The Vercors has some chasms, so to traverse them one has to cycle the diagonal road down one side and back up the other. Eventaully made it to the Col de Rousset after a 1700ft climb, and then came the descent to Die.
2800ft in 20k and 8 hairpins - - tough on the brake fingers - - but enough strength left to lift a glass of Clairette de Die.
Warmed up along the Isere valley then the climb into the Vercors.
Magnificant views on the way up to reward the effort, then grand vistas in the Vercors of the vast plateau and the surrounding mountain ramparts.
Continuous up for 2100ft then undulations across the top to Villard.
Time for a stroll around this holiday town, before dinner at the family hotel Les 4 Montagnes.
Passed the 1000k this trip.
Seen off from the chateau by Heather and John
Navigated Chambery excellently using the cycle paths H&J pointed out.
Found the destination road I needed, but, brain in neutral, chose the wrong direction on it.
After a few k noticed its number and quality had dropped, but, brain still in neutral, carried on.
At 5k brain began to engage, noticed sun to my right, therefore travelling N - - wrong direction.
10k added to the day.
Couple of cols to ascend and enjoy descending.
Had to attach bike lights for a tunnel.
Finished in the Isere valley ahead of tomorrow's big climb.
Relaxing day, in brillant company.
Strolled around Chambery, seems similar architecture to Torino, possibly because of rule by the Dukes of Savoy.
Slow lunch, many conversations about the characters in the now related families, supper at the chateau, early bed.
Short ride today thanks to yesterday's exertions.
One long sunny 1400ft climb up to Col des Pres, 1142m
then a short cloudy ride down to Thoiry, home of a Hilton family branch. Lovely welcome.
Good weather start and throughout the day
Cross country route towards Annecy with many up and downhills.
In Annecy, passed the site of Lycee Berthollet, where I stayed 50 years ago this month.
Got to my planned destination, Sevrier, at 1330, and decided to press on expecting to find a hotel. Rode up and down the col of the Semnoz, but didn't find a stop for the night until 1715, so a long day in and out of the saddle.
Found I'd left my laptop charger in Cartigny.
Brilliantly atmospheric hotel. Must return.
Saw Will off with his bike for his train ride back to the UK (with one or two booking scares).
Casual day for me. Strolled around Cartigny. Watched England beat India in the first test.
Enjoyed Helen & Rich's hospitality
Walked around Geneva's old town and part of the waterfront
Made phone contact with the Hilton clan near Chambery, and planned a route to them.
A later night than usual convinced me tomorrow won't be a cycling day.
About 600ft climb to the Col de la Givrine
Then the start of a long descent to the lake of Geneva.
Dropping down out of the clouds our first sighting
with Will's first 500mile trip
and a lovely welcome from Helen and Rich in Cartigny.
Weather continues showery
Second day of up and downhills through the Jura - - another 2800ft in uphills.
Some were a surprise compared with our map.
Prompt start, excellent stopping point at 1100 for a sandwich, early finish.
Late start to wait for a break in the rain - - weather as previous.
Main feature of today'scycling were the climbs into the Jura - - 1500ft in uphills - - more tomorrow.
My first fall - - low speed, scratches only
Longest ride so far - - Will's first >100k.
Decided to press on for as far as possible to reserve time for the Jura climbs in coming days.
Glowering skies again with showers occasionally opening up for some sunshine.
Thankfully no headwinds.
Again, rich scenery, with village architecture and building materials changing.
Gone are the timber framed cottages and church spires of the low lands, here its natural stone and church towers with a cow bell shaped cap.
rest day
Will's new bike gear change cables had stretched so not all low ratios were functional.
Fixed by the local bike shop. Vital for the coming Jura climbs to Geneve.
Set out under glowering skies, and cycled into showers through the day.
My left knee sent twinges of ligament pain, so walked up any steep slopes.
No food outlets en route so arrived hungry.
Crossed rolling hills farmland exposed to enervating side winds for 3/4 of the ride
then down in the sheltered river Aube valley for the last leg to Bar.
Best value for money hotel so far (Saint Nicholas)
Followed the Marne right bank to Challons then the left to Vitry.
Continuous cross winds sapped our energy and slowed us.
No lunch stopping places so arrived hungry.
Late start to get some bike stuff when the Laon shops opened.
Our route crossed river valleys so lots or up and down hills.
Brilliant last few miles down through broad vista intensive vine fields into Epernay.
(scroll photo toright)
At E, the tourist info office helped to reserve a hotel room, and then got us involved in a champagne tasting event - - made it to the hotel.
Staying in Laon for Bastille day
Fast first half,
then slower because our guide took us off-road, where Will had his first puncture.
Carelessly left our pump at the site of the puncture.
Pushed our bikes up the back street steep hills into Laon.
Rolling countryside, many British and Commonwealth war graves
especially the Canadian memorial at Vimy ridge.
Managed to hit what we think should be our ideal standard schedule
- 2/3 of the ride
- light lunch at 1200
- 1/3 of the ride
- refreshments
Eventually found our way out of St Omer
Picturesque ride, and mainly easy going,
except for a minor deviation for a closed canal bridge,
and our first encounter with Flanders' rolling hills.
Bike meter stolen from my bike during channel crossing.
Found our way out of Calais.
For this trip, using the 'ViaMichelin' guide for navigation by the cycling back roads.
Made it to St Omer without too many mistakes.
